Things to Do in Montenegro in December
December weather, activities, events & insider tips
December Weather in Montenegro
Is December Right for You?
Advantages
- Kotor and Budva are virtually empty - you'll have the Old Towns mostly to yourself, which is incredible considering they're packed shoulder-to-shoulder in summer. Restaurants that ignore you in July will actually chat and offer complimentary rakija.
- Accommodation costs drop 40-60% compared to peak season. That boutique hotel in Kotor's Old Town that charges 180 euros in August? Expect 70-90 euros in December, often with free upgrades since occupancy is low.
- The Bay of Kotor in winter fog is genuinely atmospheric - mountains disappearing into mist, that moody Adriatic light photographers obsess over. If you're after dramatic landscape photos rather than beach shots, December delivers.
- Ski season at Kolašin opens mid-December, giving you the unusual combination of skiing in the morning and coastal towns in the afternoon - you can drive from slopes to sea in 90 minutes, which still feels absurd every time you do it.
Considerations
- Most coastal restaurants and hotels close entirely from November through March. In Budva, maybe 30% of establishments stay open. You'll find enough options, but that trendy spot you read about? Probably shuttered until April.
- Beach activities are completely off the table - water temperature drops to 13-15°C (55-59°F), and even locals think you're insane if you swim. If your Montenegro dream involves Adriatic swimming, December will disappoint.
- Public transport gets sparse - bus frequencies drop by half, and some routes to smaller coastal villages run only 2-3 times daily instead of hourly. You'll really want a rental car, which adds cost and complexity.
Best Activities in December
Kotor Old Town and Bay Exploration
December transforms Kotor from a cruise ship circus into something actually magical. The Old Town's marble streets glisten after rain, and you can photograph St. Tryphon's Cathedral without 50 people in your frame. The famous ladder climb to St. John's Fortress (1,350 steps, 260m or 853ft elevation) is actually pleasant in cool weather - summer heat makes it genuinely miserable. Morning fog over the bay creates that moody, mysterious atmosphere that looks incredible. The Christmas market typically runs mid-December through early January in the main square, small but charming with local crafts and mulled wine.
Lovćen National Park Winter Hiking
The serpentine road up to Lovćen is spectacular in December, especially after light snow dusts the peaks. Njegoš Mausoleum at 1,657m (5,436ft) offers panoramic views when weather cooperates - on clear days you can see Albania, Croatia, and across to Italy. The temperature drops significantly with altitude (expect -5 to 2°C or 23-36°F at the top), but crowds are non-existent. Trails around the park are quiet and atmospheric, though some higher routes may be snow-covered or icy. The park stays open year-round, unlike many European mountain parks.
Kolašin Ski Resort
Montenegro's main ski area opens mid-December depending on snowfall, offering a completely different side of the country that beach-focused tourists never see. It's modest by Alpine standards - 25km (15.5 miles) of runs across two areas - but uncrowded and significantly cheaper than Western European resorts. The vibe is local and unpretentious, with Serbian and Montenegrin families rather than international ski crowds. Snow reliability has improved with recent investment in snowmaking. The surrounding Biogradska Gora National Park is beautiful under snow.
Cetinje and Historical Montenegro
The old royal capital is wonderfully atmospheric in December - museums are empty, and the faded grandeur of 19th-century buildings looks even more melancholic under grey skies. The National Museum, Cetinje Monastery, and former embassies are all open year-round with reduced winter hours. At 670m (2,198ft) elevation, it's noticeably colder than the coast, often with snow. The town has an end-of-the-world quality in winter that really works if you're into slightly eerie historical places. Local kafanas serve hearty mountain food perfect for cold weather.
Podgorica Food and Wine Experiences
The capital isn't pretty, but December is actually ideal for exploring its surprisingly good food scene since you're not distracted by beach weather elsewhere. Local restaurants stay open year-round, serving hearty Montenegrin winter dishes - kačamak (cornmeal with cheese and potato), cicvara, roasted lamb. The city's wine bars showcase Vranac and Krstač wines from Plantaže winery and smaller producers. December brings olive oil pressing season in nearby areas, and some agrotourism farms offer tastings. The city feels authentically local rather than touristy, which is refreshing.
Skadar Lake Winter Birdwatching
December is peak season for migratory birds at Skadar Lake - over 270 species use the lake as a wintering ground, including rare Dalmatian pelicans. The summer tourist boats mostly stop running, but specialized birdwatching tours operate year-round with local guides who actually know their ornithology. The landscape is stark and beautiful - bare mountains, mist over water, fishing villages that look unchanged for decades. Water levels are higher in winter, changing the shoreline character. Temperature is mild compared to inland areas, typically 5-12°C (41-54°F).
December Events & Festivals
Kotor Christmas Market
Small but atmospheric market in Kotor's Old Town square, typically running mid-December through early January. Expect wooden stalls selling local crafts, knitwear, honey, rakija, and simple hot food. It's modest compared to Central European Christmas markets - maybe 15-20 stalls - but the setting inside the medieval walls with mountain backdrop is genuinely special. Locals actually shop here rather than it being purely tourist-focused. Mulled wine and grilled meats in the evening create a cozy atmosphere.
Orthodox Christmas Preparations
Montenegro celebrates Orthodox Christmas on January 7th, but December sees preparation traditions worth experiencing. Families gather oak branches (badnjak) on Christmas Eve, and you'll see these displayed outside homes and churches. Markets sell traditional Christmas bread, dried fruits, and walnuts. The atmosphere builds through late December with church services and family gatherings. It's more subdued and family-oriented than Western Christmas, but offers cultural insight if you're staying through the period.